I’m not above saying that Hailey Bieber’s face is all over my “makeup looks” folder. Dewy finishes are trending, and the credit goes to Hailey Bieber’s makeup artist Mary Phillips for the trick to making everything look effortless. The long and short of it? Contour before foundation.
Despite it being all over social media lately, it’s not entirely new. Underpainting—the official name for it—has been a technique for ages, used by makeup artists for red carpets and the likes. But it’s now getting its moment in the spotlight because we’re in an era where it’s trendy to not look like we’re wearing any makeup at all.
To satisfy my curiosity, I tried underpainting my face to see the results. Here’s the play by play.
First, prep the skin. Prior to putting any makeup on your face, you want to keep it hydrated for that ‘donut glaze’ effect. I moisturized with EADEM’S Cloud Cushion Moisturizer and used Stila’s 1-Step Corrector for primer.
Next, I used a cream contour, Fenty Beauty’s contour stick, where I would normally use bronzer. I also added a little bit of concealer (Kosa’s Revealer Concealer is Hailey-approved) as well. I went ahead and added Rare Beauty’s Liquid Blush since I know it has a strong pigment. I blended it as I normally would and trusted the process, even though contour on foundation-less skin is definitely not a look.
For foundation, I chose a pretty simple, sheer foundation so you can see the contour still. I applied my Tower 28 SunnyDays Tinted SPF on the back of my hand so it would be warmed up before I put it on my face. Mary Phillips recommends using a big fluffy powder blush and applying it on with upward strokes.
Lastly, I used the Florasis’ Peach Blossom Pressed Powder with a triangle puff to set the makeup under my eyes. After I finished my eyes and lips, I used the Mac Fix-It Prep+Prime Spray to hold the hold look.
Compared to the traditional model of contouring after foundation, I definitely think that Mary Phillips’ technique is a more beloved approach for more natural makeup. As someone who doesn’t enjoy the feeling of multi-layers of makeup on her face, I’ve found that it’s way more simple and I like the look of it more.
Say “thank you” to Mary Phillips, everybody!
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